Surf.
It always gets darkest before sunrise. But I don't need light to know where I am riding.
The salt in the air and the noise of the waves lead the way. The trembling engine beneath me is an appetizer for the undulating floods in front of me. I turn my wrist and get carried away on the top of a dune, hours before most people even wake up.
Take-off
The land stops and the water begins.
The land stops and the water begins.
The horizon starts to glow while I am paddling towards it. Soon, night ends and day begins. Everything has two sides. Every continent has a coast. And every crest has a trough. I take the streets and the waves how they come. Now I feel the water surge beneath me and come to life. I get carried away on the crest of a wave and glide into the tube before the wave breaks. Now there's only me and the water.
Ride out
I ride in the direction of land and find myself in a timeless world for a short eternity.
I ride in the direction of land and find myself in a timeless world for a short eternity.
However often I surf - it feels like the first time every time, because I am reborn in the water every day. The first light of the day leads the way into the city, where everything awakens from its sleep. But even if I can't surf on land, I can take the feeling with me everywhere. I put on my helmet and know precisely: one ride is over, but the next one is only just beginning.
